FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQS)
I am a thin man what is the right style suit for me?
Wear clothing that adds substance to your appearance. Looser fit @ the waist medium shoulder pads 3 button coat pleated trousers consider a vest. Fabric with texture & depth: plaids, windowpanes, flannels, birdseyes & tic weaves.
I am a short man what is the right suit style for me?
Wear clothing to elongate your body line. 1 or 2 button coat - Shaped waist on the coats Fabrics should have smooth texture: worsted wools, gabardines, pinstripes, herringbones.
I am a heavy man what is the right suit style for me?
Wear clothing to accentuate the vertical lines of the body. Proper fit on the coat not too trim. 1 or 2 button coat recommended try to stay away from 3 button styles. Fabrics with a smooth finish & vertical patterns here also: narrow spaced pinstripes, herringbones, solids stay away from plaids.
I am a tall man what is right suit style for me?
Wear clothing to accentuate the horizontal lines to add substance to your appearance. Most models are OK. 3 button coat, fuller cut trousers. Plaids, windowpanes, larger checks & wider stripes.
What type of coat lapels should I wear?
Notch standard business lapel. Peak considered dressier than notch. Gives the illusion of more height.
What type of coat pockets should I wear?
Straight w/flap standard business style
Slanted w/flap less conservative gives the illusion of height
Straight or slant w/no flap clean, smooth look
Patch pockets gives appearance of more bulk sportier look.
What type of vents should I wear on a coat?
None fashionable, clean lines, somewhat restrictive when seated
Center standard business style
Side less conservative. Good for a man with a heavy & prominent seat.
What is Super 100s? 120s?
The #s refer to a way of grading the quality of the wool fabric. The higher the # - 100s, 120s, 130s, etc. the finer & tighter the weave of the fabric. There will also be a smoother & silkier feel to the fabric the higher the #. Of course, there is generally a correlation to the cost of the fabric increasing , as well, because the higher designation of the wool tends to be more expensive to produce.
What is the difference between a side seam, quarter & besom pocket on trousers?
Trouser pockets are simply a matter of preference. Side seam pockets are cut right on the side seam of the trousers and are generally more challenging to place your hands inside the pockets. A quarter pocket is a more traditional look, and is easy to place your hands inside your pockets, as these pockets are cut on an angle. A besom pocket is a more contemporary look. A besom or cord pocket is basically two slits of fabric finished to a sleek opening.
How do I care for my wool clothing?
Wool should only be dry cleaned. Wool cannot be laundered, or it can shrink several sizes if placed in the washer & dryer.
Why purchase on the internet?
There are many good reasons to purchase on the web. The convenience of shopping when you want. Shopping from the comfort of your own home or office. Selection - the ability to find items not available close to home and of course price.
How to buy a suit on the internet?
If you are uncertain of the fit - choose a merchant that is experienced and knows his product. Email or call and ask enough questions to give you confidence in your purchase. Describe your body type, the purpose of your suit, your price range and what you already have in your closet. Expect a professional, timely response. Ascertain that they have an acceptable return policy. Read customer testimonials on their site and ensure transactions are in a secure environment.
How do I choose the right fabric?
The fabric of choice for a fine suit is still good quality wool. Wool is a natural fiber that is robust, drapes well, bounces back into shape after repeated use, breathes well and looks good. Natural fabrics allow the body to "breathe". This means that perspiration is not retained within your clothing leaving an odor. Fine woolens are manufactured in various finishes and weights. Other fabrics that are commonly used for suits are microfiber, silk and silk blends and linen. Microfiber fabrics are generally a great choice for a more casual mens suit and wear nicely but generally do not breathe as well as wool. Microfiber is a synthetic (man-made) material that can trap body heat and perspiration. Silk and wool blends are usually lighter weight fabrics and generally fit into the specialty suit category, however, it is a great fabric for sport coats. Linen suits are intended for a casual look, are cool in the heat and wrinkle when you look at them.
How do I know if my clothes will fit me?
Taking your own measurements? Follow the measurements on the website carefully, and fill out the custom Measurement form (clickable to form).We have found that if you follow the measurement instructions on the website, we should be successful in getting a good fit on your order. We will review your order after being placed, and notify you of any inconsistencies / irregularities in your measurments, and request a remeasurement.
How much do you charge for shipping?
FREE shipping on ALL custom suits & sportcoats. FREE shipping on all orders over $300.
What form of payment do you accept?
Credit cards accepted: American Express, Visa and Master Card.
Do I have to get remeasured every time I place an order?
No, we keep all measurements on file! However, if it has been more than 6 months since you last ordered & your weight has changed, we would recommend reviewing 6 measurements only.
What do I do if the clothes do not fit?
Please call or send us an email describing the problem with your clothes providing as much details as possible or send us a picture of your issue. We will do our best to assist you with your problem.
How long does it take to receive a custom suit?
The custom suits typically take 6-7 weeks.
How long does it take to receive a custom shirt?
The custom shirts typically take 4-5 weeks.
How long does it take to receive a ready-made garment?
Most ready-made garments ship within 3 days, if in stock. We will notify you if your item is out of stock.
How long does it take to receive shoes?
Allen-Edmonds if not in stock can take 3-4 weeks, most other shoes ship within 3 days.
Is there a minimum order requirement?
No, you can order as little or much as you want!
Do you offer gift certificates?
Yes, just let us know the amount you prefer and the recipient can use the gift certificate for all of our companys products offered. We will mail the gift certificate to you or the recipient the same day ordered.
How do I care for my custom shirts?
Always have your shirts laundered at a quality commercial dry cleaner. Light to medium starch is sufficient to maintain a crisp look, heavy starches are not good for the long term care of your shirts. Remember to remove the collar stays from your dress shirts before sending them to the laundry, or they will get lost or leave a mark on the collars.
What is cashmere?
The name cashmere comes from Kashmir, the mountainous area of India and Pakistan. Cashmere is the wool from the soft undercoat of the Kashmir goat. Cashmere is one of the softest fabrics available and is unique because it provides warmth without weight.
What are working / functional buttons?
This refers to the buttons on the sleeves of a jacket constructed so that the sleeve buttons & cuffs open. Functional buttonholes on a sleeve are considered the mark of a finely tailored custom garment. Trivia: Functional buttonholes were 1st introduced by the medical profession during the Crimean War & were known as surgeon cuffs. The cuffs & sleeves of a suit coat were folded up to prevent the suit coats of the surgeons from getting ruined by surgeries performed on the battlefield.
Can I order shirts with white collars and white cuffs?
Yes, because we a re custom tailors the possibilities are almost limitless. Contrast collars & cuffs are done at NO extra charge and is part of the design process in ordering custom shirts. All fabrics can be used with a white collar and cuff.
What are collar stays on shirts?
Collar stays help to make the shirt collar lay flat when worn. Collar stays can be permanent which are sewn into a slot underneath the collar. Collar stays can be removable which is preferred, because you want to remove the stays prior to laundering the shirt, as the stays may bend mreak or melt during the laundry process.
What are the different type of collars available on shirts?
Point Collar this is the typical collar often worn with a tie, although it can also be worn as an open collar look with a suit, as well. The point collar is a straight collar.
Tab Collar a tab is always worn with a tie. A tab collar is a point collar that has an extra piece of fabric close to the middle of the collar that fastens be a snap or a button. The purpose is to project the tie away from the collar of the shirt & is generally considered a more dramatic look worn with a crisp necktie.
Spread Collar the collar is generally finished at an angle, either straight or curves slightly. The spread collar can be worn with a tie or as an open collar.
Button Down Collar the button down is a point collar that has a button & buttonhole that fastens at the end of the point to keep the collar down. The buttondown is a more casual look it can be worn with a tie, but should not be worn with a suit. The buttondown is often worn as an open collar.
Hidden Buttondown Collar The hidden buttondown is more contemporary, as it is a buttondown collar without having the buttons visible. The collar buttons underneath the collar. Again, generally worn as an open collar.
What are the different types of cuffs style available on dress shirts?
Barrel cuffs these cuffs are slightly rounded and will have 1 or 2 buttons that close the cuff.
Mitered Cuff This is a barrel cuff that has a beveled edge at the top corner of the cuff & is more distinctive looking than a simple rounded barrel cuff.
French Cuff This is a double fold cuff that is fastened with cufflinks to close. French cuffs are considered a more formal & dressier look.
What is your opinion on a polyester/cotton dress shirt?
A blended shirt often appears less crisp and dressy & can often be perceived as a less expensive shirt. A crisp cotton dress shirt looks more special, especially when worn with a finely tailored suit. Again, this comes down to a personal preference some gentlemen prefer a blended shirt, because they will wrinkle less than an all cotton dress shirt.
What is pic stitching?
Pic stitching is a stitch outlining certain areas on a suit or slacks, such as lapels and coat pockets. It may also be used on the inside where the lining meets the edge of the suit cloth. A pic stitch offers a hand finished tailored look, but is usually made by a machine.
How often should I dry clean my suit?
First, it is important to know that you should always use a reputable drycleaner. Less quality drycleaners use less quality chemicals that could damage the fabric. It is acceptable to clean a suit only once a quarter, provided you do not spill something on your suit or perspire in it. Consider having it pressed, once it loses its crispness. You should hang it up properly in the closet to let the wrinkles fall out. A soft brush can be used to remove particles. When you do dry clean it, take both the jacket and the slacks to prevent the suit's color becoming mismatched.
Neckties
How do I tie a necktie?
Please see our section on How to tie a necktie.
How do I remove a stain on a necktie?
The best way to clean a stain on your tie, is to take it to be professionally dry cleaned. Ties can be spot cleaned, but you do not want to clean your neckwear the way that you clean your shirts, as the ties will not hold up, as the silk is too delicate. Do not try to clean with soap & water, as water leave a ring on the area cleaned.
What is a self-tipped tie?
A self tip tie is a finer way to finish a tie. The back under tipping of a tie is made of the same tie fabric, as the rest of the tie. A self tipped tie is generally found on your better quality neckwear.
Belts
I go up and down on my weight what is the best size to buy to avoid buying several belts?
You should always buy a belt that fits you in the middle hole, which should be your current waist size at the time of the purchase. This will give you room to go up or down in size. Most belts are made to adjust 1-2 inches up or down. Just buy your correct size and there should be no problems for small weight gains/losses.
The Ordering Process
How do I view my order after placed?
Simply log into your account after 24 hours and go to the current orders page & here you will be able to view your orders placed & status.
Can I make changes to an order after the order is placed?
How do I send digital photos of myself?
Please send digital pictures thru e-mail & they will be incorporated into production to help assure accuracy in the fitting of your custom garment.
What type of pictures do I need to take?
We need a full frontal shot, full back shot, full left profile and full right profile. The pictures should not be taken against a white wall or window. The ideal background would be a darker color, if possible. Please include your name & contact info with the pictures.
Why do I need to wear dress clothing to be measured?
Because wearing jeans or other casual clothing will sku the measurements & the measurments taken may not be correct.
What do I do if I want to change an order that has already been placed?
Orders for custom clothing are processed & cut immediately. However, if you contact us within 24 hours of placing an order we will attempt to make any change requested, but we cannot guarantee that the change can be done.
What is the difference between a shawl, notch & a peak lapel?
The Shawl is smooth & rounded & is most often found only on tuxedo jackets.
The Notch has an indentation cut where the lapel meets the collar. The notch lapel is found on a standard business suit or tuxedo.
The Peak is a broad V-shape that points up and out below the collar. The peak lapel was popular in the 1920s, but has made a renaissance
When is a white dinner jacket appropriate?
A white dinner jacket is best worn during the warm weather months: Memorial Day to Labor Day. However, if you are visiting a tropical climate or live in one it is appropriate for an warm weather formal occasion.
Is a vest or cummerbund appropriate for a tuxedo?
The answer is more of a personal preference option. Vests have become more popular & are considered a more contemporary option. Vests have a slimming effect & are more comfortable when seated.
What type of shoes should I wear with a tuxedo?
The ONLY option should be a patent leather or formal (silk) style! A black cap toe shoe is NOT appropriate to wear with a tuxedo.
